February 18: Paris wanderings

I emerge from the metro into Le Marais. This is where I started my first Parisian experience 20 years ago. I drop off my bags at a charming 13th century half timbered auberge. First stop is the belle epoque Hotel de Ville of Doisneau fame. I cross the river to Notre Dame de Paris. I've forgotten how grand this place is: the soaring Gothic arches, the rose windows, the gargoyles. I cross the river yet again to Rive Gauche for a view of Notre Dame from Rene Viviani Square and continue past Shakespeare & Co, the 90 year old English bookshop. Old man Whitman is no longer at the till. I continue down touristy Rue de la Harpe. I grab a crepe from Crepes Genia, which serves the nearby Sorbonne students rather than the tourist crowd. I wander past Boul St. Mich to Boul St. Germain past Le Procope (the original restaurant, as per legends) Les Deux Magots and on to Rennes and Sevres. I locate the duBuffet Foundation--luckily I have the address--I would not have found this place otherwise. The small collection takes only about 40 minutes to see. I head back to Bon Marche's Grande Epicerie. Its selection has grown since my last visit. I cross the Seine back to the Right Bank and the Tuileries. Trees have been removed and statues are now more prominent. What is missing are the kids sailing wooden boats in the basins--maybe in the Spring?

I continue past the Ferris Wheel to Place de la Concorde. I have seen both this obelisk and its sister in Luxor. My feet are sore, but I continue along the Champs Elysees to Laduree. Macarons is the biggest trend in town and this is the place with the most reknown. A few steps more to the Arc de Triomphe and an end to this long day.