What possessed me to book a 12 hour train trip? The only redeeming part is the sunrise over the Cote d’Azur--the signature Baie d’Ange condos, the rocky outcrops near St Raphael, the highly stylized penitentiary--even the outlaws live well in France.
I am heading to Perigord to view the famed cave paintings. Timing is just right: we are in the thick of truffle season and Perigord's black truffles are considered the best.
A quick train change in Lyon, just enough time to pop by Chez Paul for a panini and chausson aux pommes. I arrive in Perigueux in rainy darkness. I walk to my hotel across the river from the medieval quarters. The first 2 floors do not look promising but my climb up 4 flights of stairs leads me to a beautifully appointed wooden beamed gable room. Luxury at such a petit price.
A rule to which I adhere (most significant while travelling on a budget during my student days): at least one hot meal per day. I pop into the only place showing warmth and human action at this late hour: Cafe de la Place. The truffle omelet is far from outstanding but the iced nougat with tart berries goes down easily.
No comments:
Post a Comment