Three bus stops later, I finally manage to catch a bus to St Paul de Vence. All the trouble is worth it: the stunning art collection at Maeght Foundation, the narrow cobbled streets, the vista extending down the valley to the Mediterranean. No wonder that such a large number of renown 20th century artists spent time here.
Occasionally, even for me, art trumps food. I head to Colombe d'Or to eat steamed vegetables surrounded by Leger, Miro, and Picasso. I do not regret the choice.
I head to Vence and Matisse's masterpiece, the Chapelle Rosaire. His minimal strokes create such expressive pieces--really a master at the height of his craft. The funky pink and chartreuse vestments are like no other.
I return to Nice. The bakery that makes my favourite friands is no longer. I settle on a socca (chickpea based crispy crepe) snack instead. I have a run-in with Lafayette's cashier, who is suspicious and not too smart (I could use other words...). I am such a francophile but the French are doing their best to make me change my mind on this trip. I walk out without my Cote d'Or chocolate fix. To top all off, as I return to Terres des Truffes for some truffled potato mash, the place was just closing up. Not a single diner showed up tonight (except me...). Sad, really, for the restaurant; with Carnaval and in full truffle season, this place should have been packed. With such a disastrous food day, all I can do is go to home base and have a cup of tea.
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