Paris' charm shows through the downpour. I stop by Niki St. Phalle's Stravinsky Fountain. Only the firebird is in place.
What is not so charming anymore is train travel in France. I spend 2 very frustrating hours at the SNCF office. My plan was to quickly book my couchettes for the night trains. Instead of more freedom with my FrancePass, it has become very limiting. Only a few spots are available on each train and the ones I want are not available. February is as low as tourist season gets; I cannot imagine what Spring and Summer would be like. I will have to spend 2 extra days travelling instead of riding the time saving night trains. What is even worse is the late arrival of day trains. I will have to prearrange all accommodations because of this.
New vegetarian restaurants have opened. I check out Veget'Halles--decent passable food. I continue my wanderings, popping into the new Lafayette Maison, tasting Angelina's hot chocolate, sniffing away at Fragonard's perfume shop, and feasting my eyes on Fauchon's selections. I continue along Faubourg St. Honore past rue Cambon where the upshot, Coco Chanel, opened her shop decades ago. The draw of Place Vendome is not Napoleon in Roman garb but rather the exquisitely designed jewels at Van Cleef & Arpels.
It is Saturday night in Paris, but I forego a night out for a simple fruit and cheese dinner and bed...not quite seizing the day/night.
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