I return the peppy rental car. Except I don’t. The rental agency is just next to the train station. “Can I leave my luggage with you?” I inquire boldly. That would be much easier than lugging all by foot. “Oh, you can keep the car until your train departure!”
Bonus! I take the extra half day to visit Brantôme, dubbed the Venice of the Perigord. Beyond the greyness is a beautiful town filled with rivers and bridges. I visit the abbey--a reminder of the power wielded by the church within each community. The meeting places hewn into the rock cliffs, the icons sculpted into stone walls.
I return to Perigueux to wander through medieval streets past hawking Saturday market vendors. For lunch, I forego more truffles (how I can beat lunch from yesterday?) to try another fungus of the region: cêpes (fresh porcini mushrooms).
A long train ride back to Paris Austerlitz, a walk by Jardin des Plantes along the Seine back to le Marais. I head for some Morroccan food in the 11th arrondisement. This area is abuzzing--young local crowd, a bit boho, more casual than the 6th. Le Souk certainly delivers--heaps of fluffy couscous accompanied by stewed vegies. I am well sated. I stop off at Café des Phares for a bad hot chocolate and a good view of Bastille. Another packed day.
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