I tiptoe quietly out, conscious of nearby sleeping guests. I catch the TGV to Lyon. This is a pilgrimage to the cradle of French cuisine. I reach destination way before my 12 :30 p.m. seating reservation at Le Sud, one of Paul Bocuse’s brasseries, by far the most vegetarian friendly of the lot. My luggage is in tow; I bypassed the left luggage by accident. The restaurant is under renovations and refuses to keep my small suitcase for an hour or so while I wander around. I do not let luggage encumbrances cramp my style and continue across the Saone to visit the old town. Cobbled streets and luggage wheels do not mix well. I convince the Miniatures Museum to keep my bags. This will guarantee a return visit later. Now I am free to duck into the nearby traboules. These interconnecting passages through courtyards were central to the Resistance Movement during World War II.
I return to Le Sud. The tagine is delicious, but does not quite live up to the memories of my first visit 14 years ago.
I return for a thoroughly entertaining time at the privately run Miniatures Museum. (Check out the photo above of Maxim’s in miniature)
Time to head to the train station and Nice. Four hours later, I walk out in the relatively warm night air. The large carnival mascots light up the night. A booking error at the spanking new St. Exupery Beach accommodations-- I end up sharing space with 5 others in a 13 bed dorm room. This is not a bad outcome--I have great roommates, part of the positives of hostelling through Europe.
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