This dose of vitamin D is just what the doc (me...) ordered. The sun warms deeper than skin. I wander through Nice's flower market to the promenade. I dip a couple digits into the Mediterranean blue. I climb up the hill to the old castle site. Instead of hordes of tourists, I am surprised by the space around me. Mosaics abound (inspiration for my next project). I head back down to the promenade and quite haphazardly, came upon the Terres des Truffes. It is full truffle season and I intend to get a few truffle meals into me. I order the recommended tortellini with truffles and cream sauce--absolutely divine. I try the black truffle oil--much more pungent than the white truffle oil to which I am accustomed.
Well sated, I exit the restaurant right into the crowd lining up for the Carnaval parade. I wait with the rest. Colourful floats, some kitschy, some fun. Getting the confetti out of my clothes will take days, I think. My favourite is the 'crowd participation required' washing machine. One hour of parade watching is enough for me--I walk along the parade route to fast forward the action. I return to home base.
I have to get a place to stay in Les Eyzies. Obviously it is low season (despite what the train people tell me)--only one inn is open for overnight guests. I change itinerary once again with some trepidation. I will have to overnight in Perigueux and will be driving a car in Europe for the first time. Maybe I should go somewhere else? Or maybe just stay in Nice?
I try to rent one of the commuter bikes in Nice but it turns out I have to have a working phone (somehow mine does not have service in France).
I keep my eyes out for the bakery I first frequented 20 years ago on my first visit to Nice--is it still around? Do they still make friands?
I try out a highly touted vegetarian restaurant in Nice, the Zucca Magica. While inventive, vegetarian food can still be so much better, even in France.
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